My problems thread

Matsuda9 · Post by **Matsuda9** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:51 am

i think that is your problem

its one tooth off (check the other side, they like to go out together)

i just finished fixing the same issue after 200K service, taken me 3 weekends to get it right. the key here is to tension the belt in right places BEFORE releasing auto-tensioner. :pissed:

SilentWizard · Post by **SilentWizard** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 5:12 am

Another day, another update. The Timing is DEAD on. But, none the less, the problem still is there. One of the problems I found today..........

The base for the PCV was broken. Had to dig the other part out with my hands. Replaced with metal one, Didn't take much to make the hose fit

Than I found this. The top one is the old one. I ran to the junk yard to get a quick fix one as the only store that had one wanted $180 for a new one! Hell no

This video, I had a screw driver to hold the throttle open to show you guys how it DIES when it idles, but hey, it idles, just sounds like it has a cam. And the idle is also perfect I think (the tag on the hood says 650)

So, set the timing today, fixed the PCV valve, and checked spark on all 6 plugs. All good. Tomorrow will check compression and will start testing the injectors, again. I'm hoping that a valve isnt bent or something. Will try to get ahold of a leak down tester this weekend.

Any more suggestions? Also the check engine light (with the green wire grounded) stays on, when I press the gas, it goes off. And my "HOLD" is flashing. What does that mean?

Matsuda9 · Post by **Matsuda9** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:01 am

ok

check the throttle body boot for cracks
PCV valve, give it a good soak in petroll or carb cleaner, check operation
the motor is surrounded by small plasticy pipes, they break easily and will leak vaccum
BAC valve could be rooted too

you earthing a single wire one?(just making sure)
you not running the engine? you have to just turn the key to ON.

i would suggest resetting the ECU. disconnect negative terminal on battery. press and hold break pedal for 15-20 Seconds. reconnect the battery run the car for at least 5 min (better to do this on cold motor running it to warm). then try to read the codes again.

does hold flash in any sequence or just flashing? just like check engine light HOLD light is there for diagnostics of the gearbox

SilentWizard · Post by **SilentWizard** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:05 am

Yes, Im earthing the single wire one. I had it earthed when I was setting the timing and noticed that the check engine light flashes regardless if the motor is running or not

Will reset the ecu tomorrow, will also check to see if HOLD is flashing in a sequence or not. I'm a little obsessive over this project right now and I just might go out there now. It's only 10 pm lol. I have 4 500 watt Halogen lights pointed at that engine as we speak

Matsuda9 · Post by **Matsuda9** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:21 am

check engine light giving you the codes

(just making sure

)

SilentWizard · Post by **SilentWizard** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:05 am

Don't you love when your V6 is running like a V4?

I pulled out the stethoscope. Injector 1 I could hear a slight tapping noise, so I was like ok, on to the next. when I checked Injector 3 I could hear a LOUD tapping noise. same with 5. So I went back to 1 and realized the faint tapping noise I was hearing was the other injectors

Injectors 1 and 2 are NOT firing. Yay, one step closer. Hopefully another problem doesn't present itself too soon after I fix this :